Everbright Solar 500 3x6 Original Untabbed Solar Cells Kit w/ Wires, Flux & Diodes
Make your own solar panels! Do It Yourself solar panel kits include the solar product components that will allow the buyer to assemble components together towards making a solar panel, and might save money compared to buying finished products. It can be a great money saving measure and very educational at the same time. Each kit contains the essential DIY components you need to connect solar cells: solar cells, tabbing wires, bus wire, a flux pen, and solder. Just encapsulate your connected solar cells to make solar power right away! These kits come in pre-packaged group of cells in the number of 500 cells. Please note that we recommend that the panels that you use be used in off grid battery charging application. For higher voltage grid tied projects, it's best to buy the professionally made UL certified panels and consult a solar professional.
*Key - These are Grade A- (A minus) 3x6 solar cells with very small edge
or corner chips or breakouts, sold at excellent price, compared to the
grade A all complete same classic cells package at higher price, very
limited availability. Please make sure you review the pictures carefully
before purchasing.
This set of new 3"x6" solar cells are string
ribbon multi crystalline cells made by an all American solar company
that has the smallest carbon foot print - they waste the least silicon
in making these cells. These are the the classic and traditional solid
blue front side string ribbon cells. In terms of output they are similar
to those Devens cells (multicrystalline look, marked by .5v3.6a), but
in any volume production you are going to have cells with varying levels
of power output. The cells are the original factory standard cell size,
not other sizes cut by using home made tools which could damage the
cells during cutting process. The cells have never been used or
soldered, and are not recycled from badly made panels like some factory
installed tabbed cells are. There are no tabs on these cells so you can
start from scratch and get experience in making solar panels. The
following is a little more details regarding this kit: (solar cells,
tabbing wires, bus wires, and flux)
I: Cells: 36 pcs plus some bonus cells
The standard cell specifications are the following, though the individual cells can be above or below these standards.
Cell Specifications:
Average Power (Watts): 1.75 Wp
Average Current (Amps): 3.5 Imax
Average Voltage (Volts): 0.5 Vmax
Thickness 200 ìm = 0.2 mm
Exact dimension: 3 1/4 inches x 6 inches, or 80 mm by 150 mm
Weight: Just above 6 grams, or 0.2 oz.
II: Tabbing wires: $4
value - 40 feet of tabbing wires to connect the solar cells. Cut them
into 6 inch sections to solder onto the bus bars on the cells.
III:
Bus wires: $3 value - 4 feet of bus wires. Use them to connect them
between the series and connect the tabbing wires ends to the junction
box at the back of the panel.
IV: Flux: $7-$9 value - an
easy-to-use flux pen that dispenses flux onto the bus bar or your
tabbing wires without leaving a mess. It's used to aid soldering and
bonding of the wires to the cells. A must have item.
Some useful information in making solar power
How to make sense of the above numbers:
The basic and very important formula you need to know to make sense of solar cells is this:
Power (P) = Current (I) Multiply by Voltage (V), or P=I*V
Power's unit of measure is watt,
Current's unit of measure is amp,
Voltage's unit of measure is volt.
So in our solar cell's
specific example, if each solar cell is rated at 1.75 watts on average,
and the voltage is 0.5, you do a little algebraic math, then to get the
amps (I), since P=I*V, so I = P / V , therefore I (amps) = 1.75 watts
divided by 0.5 volts = 3.5 amps.
It's important to understand the
concepts of series connection and parallel connection when stringing
these solar cells together to make a solar panel. Series connection of
the cells increases voltage but not amperage; parallel connection of the
cells increases amperage but not voltage. Series connection is when you
connect the positive terminal of a cell with the negative terminal of
the next cell. Parallel connection is when you connect the positive
terminals of all cells in the set of cells with a tabbing wire and all
the negative terminals of all cell in the same set. You can use a
combination of series and parallel connections to get the right voltage
and amperage for your solar panel.
The cell specifications above
were given to us by the manufacturer as averages. Variations are
possible. To make a 18 volts panel, for example, you connect 36 cells in
series (36 cells times 0.5 volt each = 18 volts). And 36 * 1.75 (each
cell in theory averages 1.75 watt) watt = 63 watts. The amps you will be
getting is 63 watts divided by 18 volts = 3.5 amps.
Solar cells basics:
The front of the cells (blue side, aka Sunny side) has two thick white
lines, called bus bars. They are the negative terminals of the cell. The
back side, where the 6 square dots are, are positive terminals. Connect
the tabbing wires from the bus bar of the first cell on one side to the
three dots of on the back side of the next cell. That way you have a
series connection. Repeat the process on the other side of the cells. In
panel making you should connect all the tabbing wires on the front for
all the cells first, then flip the cells over to solder the back side in
a second step. Some solar cells such as SunPower cells have both
positive and negative terminals at the back of the cells, but we don't
have to worry about them. Most cells are negative on the front and
positive on the back.
The white color bus bars on front and the
contact points on the back are made out of silver, and you should keep
them intact. Apply solder on your them and the wires should bond.
Testing:
Make
sure that you test the cells under strong sun light with the front of
the cell facing the sun, at the same time connect your meters to the
right terminals. If you are inside the building, make sure you shine
your sun simulating lamps onto the front of the cell while testing.
Panel configuration:
For those who are new to solar panel making or if you don't have an engineering background, here is our recommendation:
1) Make small panels first so you gain experience.
2)
In most situations, make either 36 or 72 cell panels, and connect them
in series. 36 cells give you 17.5 or around 18 volts or so. And 72 cells
doubles that. These panels are very useful, and you will find a lot of
matching products that will want to buy! For example, you almost always
want to use a charge controller if you make your panels to charge
batteries. Charge controllers usually come in 12 or 24 volt settings,
which match your panels' 18 and 36 volts very nicely. Yes, your panel
voltage should be 1.5 times the voltage of the battery you intend to
charge. Connect more panels together if you want to tie to the grid, in
which case, always use an inverter. However, we always recommend that
the panels that you make for yourself be used in off-grid applications,
such as charging your batteries to be used in RV, remote cabin, or
marine settings. If you intend to connect to the grid, it is wise to buy
the professionally made, UL certified panels.
3) For a lot
higher voltage panels and configurations and connecting multiple panels
to get high voltage, consult a professional. Just don't fry yourself.
Remember that solar panels are always loaded with electricity when
exposed under the sun. At high voltage even a tiny bit of current, when
handled wrongly, can kill you.
Soldering:
If you want to become a serious panel maker, buy a good soldering iron
whose temperature can be adjusted. Don't get a cheap iron. It's one of
the most important tools you need to have. If you can't buy an
adjustable solder iron, get one that's rated at 90 watts. Also when you
solder, all you need to do is to apply flux on the bus bars and the
backside contacts before soldering. Do NOT scrape off the whitish
substance on the bus bar or the backside square contacts. Those are made
of silver and must be kept intact. Just apply flux and solder the
tabbing wires. The wires are already coated with tin solder so you don't
need to use extra solder AT ALL. Use a smooth and continuous motion to
solder the wires onto the bus bars of the cells.
Disclaimer: We
are not experts in power systems and the above are what we learn through
experience but we share what we know, and you should take it with a
grain of salt. Buy books written by experts or take classes from the
pros. These are about as much as we can help you with to get started,
and we hope that this free consulting will reduce the flood of eBay
messages that come into our inbox on a daily basis. Some people just
keep asking question and taking time from us without buying, and we love
to give, but please be considerate. Our resources are not limitless.
